Heat the olive oil over medium heat in either a heavy 5-quart pot or, if you have one, a 3.5-quart braiser that can go from stovetop to oven (such as the one pictured and linked below). Add the minced garlic and cook for just a moment, until aromatic.

Add the flour all at once and cook, whisking frequently, for 90 seconds.

Add the milk, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and bay leaves. Raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil, stirring frequently.

When the milk boils, immediately lower the heat to medium-low. Simmer until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until just shy of al dente, about 7 minutes if the package says 11. Drain.

Off the heat, add the fontina, the provolone, half the mozzarella, and half the parmesan. Stir until cheese is melted.

Stir in the the basil and parsley.

Stir in the pasta.

Preheat oven to 375° F/190° C with a rack in the center. If you haven't cooked the sauce in an oven-safe dish, pour the mixture into a 9x13X2-inch or other 3.5-quart baking dish. Top with remaining mozzarella and parmesan.

Bake until lightly browned and bubbly, about 20 minutes.