• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer

Umami Girl logo

  • About
  • Recipes
  • Topics
    • Family
    • Food
    • Home
    • Adventure
  • Shop
  • Nav Social Menu

    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • Twitter
menu icon
go to homepage
subscribe
search icon
Homepage link
  • Recipes
  • Lifestyle
  • About
  • Shop
  • Favorite Things
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • Twitter
  • ×

    Lifestyle » Adventure » Travel » North America » Johnston Canyon + the Ink Pots: Hiking in Banff National Park

    Johnston Canyon + the Ink Pots: Hiking in Banff National Park

    August 27, 2016 / Updated Jun 06, 2020 / by Carolyn Gratzer Cope / Leave a Comment

    Umami Girl is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn a commission. Learn more here.

    Hiking Canada's national parks

    Welcome to the first post in what promises to be a truly picturesque series on hiking the national parks of Alberta and British Columbia, Canada. Today we’ll be showing off Johnston Canyon and The Ink Pots in Banff National Park. Our family discovered right here that we’ve reached a stage where we all love hiking, and I can’t think of anything better. The littlest Cope, now 8, needed some encouragement from time to time in the form of, “Think of how all this altitude training will improve your gymnastics!” But otherwise we fielded few complaints. Small price to pay for a new world of magical experiences.

    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-6

    Johnston Canyon: choose your own adventure

    At Johnston Canyon you can choose your own adventure. There’s a more crowded 1.7-mile hike to the Upper Falls (3.5 miles round-trip), which takes you on paved paths and the catwalk type thingy in the photo above. There’s an elevation gain of about 120 feet (which doesn’t begin at sea level, let me tell you), and the scenery is MAGNIFICENT, but otherwise this part of the journey feels a little less  hikey and a little more touristy.

    Leaving the crowds behind

    The second phase of the trip, from the Upper Falls to the Ink Pots, climbs higher through the woods on dirt paths and is much less crowded. The trail opens up at the end to beautiful meadows and the Ink Pots, seven cold mineral springs that bubble to the surface. Although they’re all in close proximity, each is a different color due to the mineral composition of the spring. I’m surprised how few people decided to continue on for the additional 1.9 miles to the Ink Pots. Maybe they’ve packed their schedules, or maybe they don’t know what they’re missing. But dudes. Do it. The total round-trip distance for this hike is 7.2 miles. We got a seriously late start on the day and still had plenty of time, even with kids.

    Johnston Canyon official website

    Here’s a link to the official website for the area in case you’re in information-seeking mode. If you’d like to browse photos and endure some of my color commentary (both literal and figurative), keep scrolling.

    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-2
    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-3

    Every Good Boy Does FABULOUS

    These two made fantastic ambassadors from the under-10 set. I won’t say there were zero complaints, but there weren’t many. They’re both full of personality and things to say, which helps to keep bears away, too. The one on the left (i.e. mine) said to her violin teacher the other day while reviewing the treble clef line names, “OR it could be Every Good Boy Does FABULOUS.” Just to give you an idea of where we’re coming from.

    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-4
    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-5
    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-8

    Falls, falls, falls

    Falls falls falls. Or as we said in Iceland last year, Foss foss foss, am I right? Same idea, different language. We are all earthlings. (Bonus points if you caught that reference and know it’s me copping to my age.)

    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-9
    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-10

    Trail vibes

    Up top there, a post-lunch branch ride fiesta. And below, here’s a rare downhill moment on the way from the Upper Falls to the Ink Pots. (Of course that means the way back is downhill galore.) This is a good indication of what the trail feels like otherwise.

    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-11

    Fox and rabbit therapy

    We saw a fox! This was our first glimpse of wildlife larger (though barely) than the insanely giant rabbits they have in Calgary. Side note, I might need therapy after seeing those in people’s yards. The fox was a fitting sight for our crew since we met while living in London, and similar foxes run rampant there.

    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-12

    End of Nordic ski trail

    I enjoyed learning from this sign that I’d just spent the better part of the afternoon on a Nordic ski trail without knowing it. That's Canada for ya.

    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-15

    Holiday card outtakes

    Which photo should we go with? I'm partial to the one with the extra personality.

    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-13
    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-14

    The Inkpots

    You can see two of the Ink Pots in the next photo and immediately notice the variation in water color. So cool, right? And check out this super-short Instagam video to see the water bubbling up from underground. 

    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-16
    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-17
    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-18
    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-20
    My loves. Hi.

    You belong among the wildflowers 

    And this gorgeous crew. These lovely wildflowers are a tiny taste of what you’ll see when I take you to Sunshine Mountain.

    Johnston Canyon Hike Banff National Park Canada 780 | Umami Girl-21

    A moment of zen

    And I’ll close with one of my signature meditative water flow videos. Don’t ask — I don’t know. Just roll with it and turn on the sound for a moment of zen. Talk to you soon.

    Hungry for more?

    Subscribe to our email updates, and follow along on Instagram, Pinterest, Facebook, and YouTube.

    « A Few Notes + Where to Eat in Calgary
    Perfect Popcorn with Nutritional Yeast »
    • 3

    About Carolyn Gratzer Cope

    Welcome! I’m Carolyn Gratzer Cope, and Umami Girl is your guide to a life well-lived. UG is a lifestyle site for curious, thoughtful people who seek to make every day a little special and have a great time doing it. We're brimming with real talk about the things that matter most — family, food, home, and adventure — and I hope you'll love digging in. Read More…

    Reader Interactions

    Leave a Reply Cancel reply

    Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

    Recipe Rating




    Primary Sidebar

    WELCOME TO UG

    Welcome! I’m Carolyn Gratzer Cope, and Umami Girl is your guide to a life well-lived. UG is a lifestyle site for curious, thoughtful people who seek to make every day a little special and have a great time doing it. Learn more

    THE FRIDAY NEWSLETTER

    Start every weekend off right with our Friday newsletter.

    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • Twitter

    Most Popular

    Easy Vegetarian Ramen | Umami Girl

    Easy Vegetarian Ramen with Rich, Savory Broth

    Basmati Rice Pilaf 780 | Umami Girl

    Basmati Rice Pilaf

    How to make an epic fruit platter

    Fruit Platter 101: How to Make an Epic Fruit Tray

    Cilantro Sauce for Mexican Food 780 | Umami Girl-2

    Cilantro Sauce Recipe for Tacos, Nachos, and More

    Spring Favorites

    Roasted Asparagus (or Grilled Asparagus) with Buttery Breadcrumbs 780 | Umami Girl

    Roasted Asparagus (or Grill It!) with Buttery Breadcrumbs

    a giardiniera deviled egg on a marble background

    Giardiniera Deviled Eggs

    a BLAT sandwich on a small white plate

    BLAT Sandwich (Bacon, Lettuce, Avocado & Tomato)

    hot spinach leek dip (ramp dip) in a skillet with pita chips

    Hot Spinach Leek Dip (or Ramp Dip)

    Footer

    As seen on

    a few examples of where umami girl has been featured

    Make It Tonight

    refried bean and cheese enchiladas with red tex mex enchilada sauce

    Refried Bean and Cheese Enchiladas

    tex mex enchilada sauce in a jar with a spoon

    Tex Mex Enchilada Sauce

    chicken and black bean enchiladas with green enchilada sauce in a pan and on a plate with a fork

    Chicken and Black Bean Enchiladas

    green enchilada sauce in a jar with a spoon

    Green Enchilada Sauce Recipe

    4 ingredient guacamole recipe in a molcajete

    4 Ingredient Guacamole Recipe and Variations

    vegan black bean soup in a bowl with a spoon and napkin

    Vegan Black Bean Soup (Instant Pot or Stovetop)

    • About
    • Contact
    • Privacy Policy

    © 2008-2022 UMAMI GIRL LLC